Thursday 22nd January 2015

Thursday 22^nd January 2015

There was no lecture this morning, instead we took the bus to the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA). We arrived before the museum opened but were able to walk in the sculpture garden before hand. This garden populated by 64 sculptures and the benefaction of Sydney and Walda Besthoff who owned a chain of pharmacies in NO!S,  is a beautifully laid out garden with works by Rodin, Renoir, Hepworth, Moore, Rickey, Indiana, Botero, Pomodoro and many others. Although it was not a very sunny morning this tranquil garden was a nice start to the day. 

... and above, just some of the sculpture in the NOMA sculpture garden

...and we weren't the only ones up early to see the art!

We did try to visit the beautiful old carousel in City Park but it was, unfortunately closed for the season. 

Yes, you are right ONE of them is Humpty Dumpty

We entered the museum which is a very impressive museum for a city of the size of NOLA. There are works by Utrillo, Miro, Cassatt, Degas ( of course, he lived in the city for a while), Picasso, John Singer Sargent, many local artists, Renaissance artists and art from Asia and other parts of the world . There was also an exhibition of paintings which are made to look like photographs including a remarkable tapestry by Chuck Close which looks for all the world like a photograph. The museum is well laid out, lightly secured with helpful staff and clear galleries. There was an astounding gold log cabin marked ‘America 2013’ in which was contained slavery paraphernalia as well as modern electronic equipment.

We left the museum for the Golden Feather restaurant where we had a nice lunch followed by a talk by Shaka Zulu. Shaka is a Chief in the Yellow Pocohontas tribe of Mardi Gras Indians. He described how the traditions of Mardi Gras Indians had evolved from cultures for all over the world including Haiti, West and South Africa, Europe Native Americans as well as other parts of the world. Shaka has researched the subject extensively traveling all over the world in search of the roots of the culture. Shaka is a stilt dancer and plays many instruments. Shaka explained how the traditions of the culture were preserved and paid homage to in the Mardi Gras celebrations. The suits (you may call them costumes but they are really called ‘suits’), are made of thousands of beads which are all sewn by hand. The suits are only used once and in the past were burned after use but now are sent to museums or sold. It may take as many as 2,400 hours of work for a suit. Suits differ according to the location of the tribe, uptown or downtown. The star of the Mardi Gras assemblies was in Congo Square across the street from the Golden Feather. In the old days under the French rule and the Code Noir, slaves were allowed to assemble on Sunday's which was a free day. This Sunday assemblage has been revived on Super Sunday's when protests against anew highway which has blighted a former black commercial area take place on occasions. The Mardi Gras processions are led by a Spy Boy out front, followed by a Flag Boy, a Medicine Man and a Queen and or a Chief bringing up the rear. There is much competition between tribes. As the procession is long, the Spy Boy and Flag Boy are there to pass secret signals down the procession to the Chief at the back. Shaka told us about chanting and we all joined in to a chant. This is a complex and very intricate culture with much color and music and many very old traditions, terms and language. 

...and above the incredibly intricate beaded Mardi Gras Indian suits

Shaka leading the chanting

Our group joining in the chanting with Shaka

At the end of the lunch we said farewell to Sharon who has been our ‘mother hen’ in the nicest possible way all week so far. I have renamed her ‘Sharon I have just a few things to tell y’all’. This is meant in a kindly way as Sharon has always explained very fully what we would be doing, where everything was and made sure we are all aware of what to do.

Mac & Sharon

We then walked across the street to Congo Square

The Sacred Tree

Statues and sculpture marking events in Congo Square which is now part of Louis Armstrong Park

We then walked through the French Quarter in the now falling rain and took a break at the Capilbo before walking back to the hotel for a rest before embarking for our Yakamein adventure.

By the time we left to find the Yakamein, it was raining heavily. We managed to get a cab and drove to the address which we had been given. This turned out to be the Ogden Museum of Southern Art. The museum had a late opening night with a small combo playing. In the back was a small table where there was a pot of Yakamein, in two types, beef of beef and shrimp. The former for $6 and the latter for $7. We ordered two pots of beef and shrimp. This proved to be a hot and spicy soup with noodles, scallions, other vegetables and beef and shrimp. On this raw,cold night it was just what the doctor ordered. Unfortunately Miss Linda who makes the Yakamein was not present as she is recovering from eye surgery. But it was worth the rainy trip to sample the dish. We washed this down with a cinnamon toast cocktail which was made with whisky and other ingredients.

This is Yakamein, you can almost taste the hot sauce from here!

NOTE: For more information on Yakamein - see the last post on this blog.

We toured the museum starting at the 5^th floor where there was a Jean-Michel Basquiat exhibit. I must say that although works by this artist fetch millions, I have never quite understood their attraction as they resemble very juvenile art with little real technical merit, that is, of course, a personal opinion and doubtless art aficionados would disagree. On the museum’s lower floors there were works by local artists both impressionist, modern and more traditional styles. There were also sculptures, ceramics, glassware, photography and more. This is a nice museum which we would not have seen if we had not gone in search of Yakamein.

We did have some trouble getting a cab for the trip home but we made it after getting a bit damp. Then we stopped for a snack in the hotel bar and met Ellie who was looking for a nightcap. We had a nice chat over our dessert and her nightcap.

Then it was off to bed. We also have to start preparations for our ten day drive home staring on Saturday. This will entail doing some laundry and organizing our rental car.