Wednesday 21st January 2015

Today we started our program with a lecture on architecture. But before Jerry could begin, someone asked about slavery in Louisiana and Jerry explained that there were, at the outset differences between the French and the Anglo versions, the French version being somewhat more liberal perhaps influenced by the Roman Catholic Church. After the Purchase by the United States in 1803, these differences tended to close to become more like the Anglo version.

On architecture, Jerry started his remarks by saying the "America does not consider architecture and art form". This is quite a controversial remark but he justified it by commenting that there were very few, if any, architecture programs in colleges.

Jerry then started to talk on the local architecture scene. He told us about  the early style of 'shotgun' houses which evolved from houses typical in parts of Africa, then imported to Haiti and then on to Louisiana. These were long thin houses with two front doors and four rooms. The houses were efficient to build and made maximum use of space and materials. These shotgun houses then morphed into larger dwellings. Then there were various phases of architecture from Greek Revival, to Italianate, Tudor, Victorian and Gothic in various forms. The fashion moved from less to more decoration and the materials and styles changed as times changed. Versions of the 'shotgun' houses still exist and are lived in in the city. The city has no consistent style of architecture with all of the forgoing being 'cheek by jowl' on one street. The Garden District has some of the widest selection of examples of all of the styles mentioned above and also others not mentioned.

After we had our lunch time sandwich by the swimming pool, we boarded the bus to go on a tour of the Garden District to see some of the architecture which Jerry had introduced us to in his slide show. The bus basically followed the route of the St Charles trolley and wound its way through a mixture of buildings on both sides of St Charles Avenue in many different styles. We passed Tulane and Loyola Universities, adjacent to one another but very different architecturally. We passed large single family homes, towering Gothic churches. The Avenue is bordered by large, mostly live oak trees. It is a genteel and sophisticated boulevard. The mixture of styles makes it all the more charming although that might not be to all tastes. Most of the houses seem to be in good condition.

We stopped at First Street and walked a few blocks to get a closer and more detailed look at the houses and in the process walked by the house in which Jefferson Davis died and the house in which Anne Rice, the author lived. These magnificent houses in Greek Revival or Colonial Revival styles are well kept and maintained although the cost of doing so must be enormous.

A paint job which must be very extensive and require much preparation only lasts 7 years at most. Many of the houses have ‘galleries‘ which might also be called verandas. There is a lot of wrought iron work and even some ‘woven iron work’. All the streets have these enormous trees shading the houses from the sun. It was interesting to learn that there is very little ‘Landmark’ type controls and people are allowed to do what they like with their houses with little restriction. This does not apply in the French Quarter but it does elsewhere including in the Garden District. One might have imagined that the city would jealously protect its architectural heritage but the occupants of the Garden District oppose regulation and say that the situation will not changes as they will be good stewards and guardians of the area without City regulation. Let's hope they are right.

The above pictures give some examples of the many styles of architecture in New Orleans. I could add many more examples.

The stone marking the house where Jefferson Davis died.

Woven iron fencing

OK nothing to do with architecture but how about this in mid-January?

Anne Rice's House

We returned for our tour to the French Quarter and went to Faulkner House Books to purchase a copy of ‘Gumbo Zeb’ which is a book of Cajun and Creole sayings.
 

We the took a cab out to see Mrs. Bordelon and this adventure is the subject of a separate post.

After our adventure with Mrs. Bordelon, we returned to the hotel before leaving again by bus to Dooky Chase’s restaurant. This was about 15 minutes drive away at 2301 Orleans Avenue. This is a small restaurant which was reserved for our party. It is owned by Leah Chase, Dooky’s widow. She is 92 years old and has had a very impressive array of visitors to her restaurant, including Presidents Bush and Obama and many others. She also has a birthday card from the Pope. She serves soul food and has won many awards for her food and her restaurant which is decorated with some lovely art. Our meal was good with bean soup, red beans and rice, hot sausage, fried chicken, vegetables and a great peach bread pudding for dessert.

 

I even got to sit in the chair that President Obama sat in when he came to Dooky's!!

 

The photo of President Obama at Dooky's

....and an attempted copy sitting in the same chair!!!!!!

THE chair!!

Dooky's, go there if you can.

 

At the end of the meal, Leah, herself came out and talked to us. She is really some lady. She has trouble with her knees, walks with a walker and she said “Some people say I should have them (my knees), replaced but I am going to my grave with all the bits I started out with”. She is a terrific lady with a lovely smile and a winning way. Many of her family work at the restaurant. This was a very congenial meal, maybe the best food we have had with the Road Scholar tour so far. Leah has a remarkable collection of Art in the restaurant as well as some magnificent Mardi Gras outfits from parades past. This was certainly quite an experience.

Leah chatting with Ellie from our group.

Leah holding forth...!

Both of them have pretty nice smiles, don't you think??

A couple of the magnificent Mardi Gras costumes that are in Dooky's.

 

We returned to the hotel in the bus and there was a concert by a small group arranged for us in the hotel.

This small combo which consisted of clarinet, banjo and bass was excellent and played many requests for us. They really were a very good set of musicians and the banjoist, who had not long ago had a stroke but has recovered, was amazing. The clarinetist who has played with many bands and orchestras was also very accomplished and upon request played the opening solo from Rhapsody in Blue incredibly well. The bassist who we had also heard on the Creole Queen, was also given some solos which he really got into. All I all it was a most enjoyable hour.

 

Our combo

So that was another busy day in New Orleans.